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OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
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Pterodactyl Offline
Road Warrior

Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,727
Joined: Sep 2013
Post: #1
OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
I posted this some time ago in another thread. There is still some interest in fitting OEM Rear Racks so will post again in its own thread. This works for the '10 - '13 models. Can't speak for the '14 so will leave that to those who have seen one. If any one wants to provide feedback please do so. I apologise for some of the photos as to hold allen keys, bolts and simultaneously take a photo is beyond me.


1. Remove seat, cover the fuel tank and tail-light bracket and then pull a pair of sports socks over the indicators. The socks protect the chrome indicator housings from Allen keys and the various bolts as they are removed and replaced. The indicators themselves can be gently pulled, or pushed, to achieve clearance as required.

2. With an allen key loosen, to just finger tight, the four grab rail assembly (the silver bits running along the frame) retaining bolts.

İmage

3. Remove the front bolts (only) completely. The grab rail assembly should stay close to "in position". Place the rack roughly in position over the grab rail assembly and tail light area.

İmage

4. Place the front of the rack so that you can slide the (longer) front bolts through the rack, spacers and grab rail assembly through to the nuts that are fixed to the frame. Tighten to finger tight. The rack is now held in position by the front bolts and now sits atop the (covered) tail light assembly at the rear, or if you have the front bolts just tight enough, sitting above the assembly.

İmageİmage

5. Remove the rear bolts by first removing the nuts. The nuts are not attached to the frame. Best to remove the nuts by hand rather than hold the nuts and unscrew the bolts. Hang on to the nuts or let them drop and have fun finding them Rolleyes .

İmage

6. Put the rear of the rack and spacers in position and, gently moving the indicators clear, slide in the (longer) rear bolts through the rack, spacers and metal indicator seals (Honda calls them "Setting Plates") Make sure these "seals", which seal off the indicator internals, are correctly positioned with their tabs correctly positioned.

İmage

7. The tricky bit is to start the nuts, by fingers, on to the bolts. With the bolts pushed through just enough for you to work with this is achieved a flat and a bit at a time. Once started, jam the nuts ( I use my fingers) and then tighten the bolts.

İmage

8. Tighten all the grab rail mounting bolts so they don't fall out. If your fussy and have a torque wrench then tighten to 26 N.m or 19 lb.ft. Remove protectors, replace seat.

9. Have a cold beer (WARNING - leave this step to last)

VOILA!

I remove and replace my rack at regular intervals. After the first couple of times it takes less than a few minutes. Its like a lot of things in this life; once you have done it, you know how. Some key points:

1. When fitting the front, square the rack so that you can fit the spacers; the rear squares itself when the front is finger tightened
2. Don't damage the indicators when pushing in the rear bolts
3. Make sure the indicator metal seals (setting plates) are positioned correctly
4. While all of the above is going on make sure the key is out of the seat lock/helmet holder. The key is easily bent or broken while in there.

If you got all the above then removal is sorta just a reversal of installation. If you haven't got it, then mate,you are on your own! Undecided

Cheers
(This post was last modified: 11-14-2015 09:26 AM by Guth.)
07-12-2014 12:37 AM
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The ferret Online
Forum Moderator

Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Joined: Apr 2013
Post: #2
RE: OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
Excellent tutorial Ptero. I'm sure this will prove helpful to many.

.
2014 DLX and 2006 ST 1300
"a good chunk of life's problems can be solved by going for a ride"...Guth ..... "daily" ...Ferret
07-12-2014 03:32 AM
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Houtman Offline
High Mileage

NC USA
Posts: 879
Joined: May 2013
Post: #3
RE: OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
I used painters tape to keep the nut on the wrench, makes it a lot easier, not having the nut fall out all the time.
It must be terrible losing your nuts.
07-12-2014 04:57 AM
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EmptySea Offline
Been There

Chicagoland, USA
Posts: 4,368
Joined: Jun 2013
Post: #4
RE: OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
...or jamming them.

Thanks for the "how to". I'm thinking about getting this rack and it's good to know that it's a relatively easy task to remove and reinstall it; made much easier with your step by step instructions.

MTC


2013 CB1100 non-abs
2013 CB1100 abs
07-12-2014 05:17 AM
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Pterodactyl Offline
Road Warrior

Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,727
Joined: Sep 2013
Post: #5
RE: OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
(07-12-2014 04:57 AM)Houtman Wrote:  I used painters tape to keep the nut on the wrench, makes it a lot easier, not having the nut fall out all the time.
It must be terrible losing your nuts.

No way do I put a wrench on my nuts. On the other hand, so to speak, you didn't mean to say wench did you?

Cheers
(This post was last modified: 07-12-2014 05:30 AM by Pterodactyl.)
07-12-2014 05:29 AM
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Houtman Offline
High Mileage

NC USA
Posts: 879
Joined: May 2013
Post: #6
RE: OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
losing your nuts will drive you crazy !
07-12-2014 03:38 PM
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Randy B Offline
Road Warrior

San Jose CA
Posts: 2,232
Joined: Apr 2013
Post: #7
RE: OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
On the wifes nightstand?
07-12-2014 03:42 PM
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Cormanus Offline
Moderator

Queensland, Australia
Posts: 10,695
Joined: Dec 2013
Post: #8
RE: OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
Tempted though I am ....
07-13-2014 02:38 AM
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Johnboy Offline
1st Service Completed

Tennessee
Posts: 127
Joined: Feb 2015
Post: #9
RE: OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
(07-12-2014 12:37 AM)Pterodactyl Wrote:  I posted this some time ago in another thread. There is still some interest in fitting OEM Rear Racks so will post again in its own thread. This works for the '10 - '13 models. Can't speak for the '14 so will leave that to those who have seen one. If any one wants to provide feedback please do so. I apologise for some of the photos as to hold allen keys, bolts and simultaneously take a photo is beyond me.


1. Remove seat, cover the fuel tank and tail-light bracket and then pull a pair of sports socks over the indicators. The socks protect the chrome indicator housings from Allen keys and the various bolts as they are removed and replaced. The indicators themselves can be gently pulled, or pushed, to achieve clearance as required.

2. With an allen key loosen, to just finger tight, the four grab rail assembly (the silver bits running along the frame) retaining bolts.


[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/f7421864-2bdc-4e30-be5f-21c385c9e039_zps736f9c58.jpg', '', 'toolbar=no');myWindow.focus();">[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/f7421864-2bdc-4e30-be5f-21c385c9e039_zps736f9c58.jpg" style="max-width: 600px; max-height: 600px;" alt="İmage" title="Click Photo To Enlarge" />[/img]

3. Remove the front bolts (only) completely. The grab rail assembly should stay close to "in position". Place the rack roughly in position over the grab rail assembly and tail light area.

[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/IMG_0151_zps59f0b563.jpg', '', 'toolbar=no');myWindow.focus();">[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/IMG_0151_zps59f0b563.jpg" style="max-width: 600px; max-height: 600px;" alt="İmage" title="Click Photo To Enlarge" />[/img]

4. Place the front of the rack so that you can slide the (longer) front bolts through the rack, spacers and grab rail assembly through to the nuts that are fixed to the frame. Tighten to finger tight. The rack is now held in position by the front bolts and now sits atop the (covered) tail light assembly at the rear, or if you have the front bolts just tight enough, sitting above the assembly.

[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/IMG_0149_zps5d3db8fc.jpg', '', 'toolbar=no');myWindow.focus();">[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/IMG_0149_zps5d3db8fc.jpg" style="max-width: 600px; max-height: 600px;" alt="İmage" title="Click Photo To Enlarge" />[/img]İmage

5. Remove the rear bolts by first removing the nuts. The nuts are not attached to the frame. Best to remove the nuts by hand rather than hold the nuts and unscrew the bolts. Hang on to the nuts or let them drop and have fun finding them Rolleyes .

[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/IMG_0154_zps68eb25cf.jpg', '', 'toolbar=no');myWindow.focus();">[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/IMG_0154_zps68eb25cf.jpg" style="max-width: 600px; max-height: 600px;" alt="İmage" title="Click Photo To Enlarge" />[/img]

6. Put the rear of the rack and spacers in position and, gently moving the indicators clear, slide in the (longer) rear bolts through the rack, spacers and metal indicator seals (Honda calls them "Setting Plates") Make sure these "seals", which seal off the indicator internals, are correctly positioned with their tabs correctly positioned.

[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/bf26dd3c-951b-4ca0-adc4-1d0660997f29_zps53f44ab8.jpg', '', 'toolbar=no');myWindow.focus();">[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/bf26dd3c-951b-4ca0-adc4-1d0660997f29_zps53f44ab8.jpg" style="max-width: 600px; max-height: 600px;" alt="İmage" title="Click Photo To Enlarge" />[/img]

7. The tricky bit is to start the nuts, by fingers, on to the bolts. With the bolts pushed through just enough for you to work with this is achieved a flat and a bit at a time. Once started, jam the nuts ( I use my fingers) and then tighten the bolts.

[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/IMG_0147_zps6f14abcc.jpg', '', 'toolbar=no');myWindow.focus();">[IMG]http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/tonys_mail/tonys_mail/OEM%20Rear%20Rack%20-%20Fitting/IMG_0147_zps6f14abcc.jpg" style="max-width: 600px; max-height: 600px;" alt="İmage" title="Click Photo To Enlarge" />[/img]

8. Tighten all the grab rail mounting bolts so they don't fall out. If your fussy and have a torque wrench then tighten to 26 N.m or 19 lb.ft. Remove protectors, replace seat.

9. Have a cold beer (WARNING - leave this step to last)

VOILA!

I remove and replace my rack at regular intervals. After the first couple of times it takes less than a few minutes. Its like a lot of things in this life; once you have done it, you know how. Some key points:

1. When fitting the front, square the rack so that you can fit the spacers; the rear squares itself when the front is finger tightened
2. Don't damage the indicators when pushing in the rear bolts
3. Make sure the indicator metal seals (setting plates) are positioned correctly
4. While all of the above is going on make sure the key is out of the seat lock/helmet holder. The key is easily bent or broken while in there.

If you got all the above then removal is sorta just a reversal of installation. If you haven't got it, then mate,you are on your own! Undecided

Cheers
Thank you so much for these directions and pictures !

Once you have tasted the SUCCESS of riding the BEST , it's hard to settle for anything LESS........ Ride CB1100
2013 CB1100
03-07-2015 12:35 PM
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Ghis Offline
1st Service Completed

Brighton, Colorado
Posts: 204
Joined: Mar 2015
Post: #10
RE: OEM Rear Rack- Fitting
I was able to slide a size 12 flat wrench over the nuts to keep them from spinning while tightening the bolts. The closed end of the wrench goes right in there.

Meter covers/battery pig tail/riser extensions/rear rack/custom top box/CBLGND plate/RLETs.

Now: '13 Triumph Scrambler & '13 Honda CB1100.
Then: '85 Vulcan 700/'95 Vulcan 750/'97 Marauder 800/'08 Sportster 883/'12 Dyna Wide Glide/'14 Sportster Seventy Two 1200.
05-12-2015 09:33 PM
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