(08-22-2016 03:11 PM)beardyweirdy@me.com Wrote: Possibly, if it's a ECU software thing then you'd think that all the Twin Exhaust, EX models of that age would have it. They probably have but unless you run your bike in the city then it most likely won't effect you.
I've had my ECU re-flashed by Guhl Motors. I'm wondering what effect writing the new mapping to the ECU by the Honda dealer will have on the data written on there at the re-flash.
Might contact Guhl Motors and see if they have any idea...
dunno if your red the EX problems in the topic mainly from Asian memmbers and myself (Europe & Asia), but the whole idle issue manifests itself ONLY in city riding....you're saying the opposite
It's been a while since I've had time to add any new posts (although I have kept up with reading other posts). I know this is going to sound unbelievable, but my bike appears to have fixed itself! It's been about 1,500 miles since the uneven idling condition has occurred, and I have no logical explanation why. I have subjected the bike to identical riding conditions (stop & go city), but it now runs perfect, returning to a nice (approximate) 1,050 RPM at each and every stop light. I was planning to inspect the Idle Air Control Valve for possible sticking, or a bad electrical connection, but I am going to follow my rule of thumb of "If it ain't broke, then don't fix it". I sure hope my posting about this "miraculous" cure won't backfire on me and the problem comes back the next time I ride; I'll add a new post if it does.
I haven't kept up my posts to this thread because there is another thread on this exact same topic that I've been updating. To keep it short: My idle problem (1,500 RPM) returned, and stayed. Disconnecting the Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor completely cured the high idle speed, but caused difficult cold engine starting, and the check engine and hot engine warning lights came on. I replaced the EOT sensor with a new one, but this did nothing to cure the problem. I tried disconnecting the battery (for 10 minutes) to see if this would reset the computer, but this didn't help either. I replaced the battery today (because it failed to restart my bike in an intersection that I turned the motor off in because I was tired of the 1,500 RPM idle), and magically my bike is running perfectly again. I only rode it for about 10 miles (at the low speeds / stop-and-go conditions that usually cause the problem), because it was beginning to rain, but it returned to a nice 1,050 RPM idle at every stop. I am NOT saying the new battery cured the problem because the high / low RPM condition has come and gone before, but I'll keep this thread posted if it returns again.
Hey Dave,
How are you getting on after fitting your new battery?
Just a thought out loud but I've been thinking about your new battery solution. Quite a few people have been running their bikes for a year or so without issue and then more seem to be getting the problem after a year or two. Poss. As their battery's start to fade? Also, we've all found that our bikes only seem to start having problems after we've been slow riding thru town, usually two up myself, running the bike at low revs. Dawdling.
If the alternator isn't making much power at those RPM's, then it could be low power effecting the issue.
I was running a lot of powered clothing on my bike the other day and at low revs the battery flattened. After bumping it I kept the revs well up and the battery came back up.
I also experienced the low idle prob at the same time as the battery wasn't charging.
All just thinking out load but you might be on to something.